“To sit in silence at the shore, watch the waves and hear the surf, is to appreciate the very breath and heartbeat of the earth.”
-Doe Zantamata
Time to head to the surfing capital of the Philippines! Siargao, located in the western islands of Mindano, is said to be the eighth best destination in the world to surf. Trust me though, there’s so much more to it than a surfy beach town.
General Luna is the main tourist area, where all along Tourism Road (road street along the coast) you are taken back to a simplistic time with a new age feel. The street is full of eco friendly resorts for surfers, yogis, and beach lovers all the same.
How to get here:
We were coming from Surigao so we took a local ferry to Dapa for around 200PHP (4USD) then jumped on a tricycle to General Luna for another 200PHP (4USD). If coming from elsewhere in the Philippines, you may be better off taking a flight directly to Siargao Island. Multiple local airlines offer daily flights, just be sure to select Siargao’s Sayak airport (IAO) – not be confused with Surigao City airport on the Island next door.
After hearing about this place from friends we knew we had to check it out. Quickly gaining popularity, Siargao is trying to keep up, but this new found popularity did present one problem – absolutely everything was booked the days we were planning on going! Granted it’s peak season in the Philippines (all the Filipinos are on summer vacation) and we were trying to book accommodation two days out … but still! Luckily we managed to find an AirBnB just 5 minutes away from the main strip.
From General Luna to Cloud 9 is the main area you’ll want to base yourself in Siargao. This strip is a bit spread out and runs up the coast for about 4km. While the island itself is small there’s much to see elsewhere too, so I’d definitely recommend renting a motorbike (350-400PHP/7-8USD per day) for at least one or two days.
By far, the best part of the island to me was the abundance of palm trees. Everywhere. I’ve never been to an island so beautiful in my life. The natural, flourishing landscape knocks it out the park! We spent one day just riding around the outskirts. With the sun shinning and few people out on the road, it was an indescribable feeling.
Be sure to pull over as frequently as possible. It’s all so picturesque. While riding north we had this amazing view overlooking the valley below, full of palm trees.
One main destination to hit is the famous surfer beach, Cloud 9. This is practically the reason tourism has picked up so much in Siagaro. There are ample opportunities for beginners and advanced surfers to enjoy the waves at Cloud 9. There is a break for all levels – with tons of options for one on one lessons available to beginners. Further out on the bigger waves you’ll find more advanced surfers putting on a show.
The beach area of Cloud 9 is fun to post up at as well, to watch the surfers and eat along the beach at the many eateries/bars lining it. We spent one morning watching the surfers from the boardwalk at the end of the pier. So peaceful. The later it got the more the tide started rolling out.
Another spot to hit is the Magpupungko beach and tidal pool, just a 45-minute moto drive from General Luna. (Entrance to tide pool is 50PHP.) The rock pools are only exposed at low tide so be sure to check the tide schedule before heading out. It’s a beautiful spot to explore and cliff jump. I advise wearing aqua shoes as the rocks can be pretty sharp. And watch where you step, there’s still lots of live marine life at low tide!
Other activities include: a day trip to Sugba Lagoon, Tak Tak waterfall, and Island Hopping to three nearby islands: Guyam, Daku and Naked Island.
With many different day trips available we decided to visit Sohoton Cove in the nearby islands of Bucas Grande.
The day started out clear and sunny but within minutes of approaching the first cave it started to downpour. We figured it would be a typical tropical shower but it ended up lasting all day. Despite being cold and wet on the boat, it didn’t take away the beauty of the sights. Even in the heavy rain the water was noticeably clear and blue!
There are several stops throughout the tour:
Hagukan Cave. Here you swim under a small opening in the wall with just enough room for your head to stay above the water at low tide towards the inside of the cave. Once inside you’ll notice that when you splash the water an electric blue glow appears. My first experience in a luminescent cave, it was fascinating!
Magkuku-ob Cave – We hopped off the boat into the water, swam into a cave, then climbed up the rock formations only to find out the only way out was a 5-meter cliff jump back into the lagoon where you started! It was quite a surprise but an adventure nonetheless!
Crystal Bolitas Cave – This cave was above land and once we walked up the many steps to the entrance we saw a little hole where the guide said, “okay follow me.” Literally on my back sliding my way down to fit into this cave only to finally arrive and still be in a small confined space on my knees. There were tons of beautiful crystals shining in the cave when we pointed our flashlights to the wall and a bunch of small rocks (bolitas) lying around the bottom from who knows where! I imagine someone who is claustrophobic would definitely feel uncomfortable doing this one. Though I’m thin, I am pretty tall so it was a tight squeeze the whole time even for me!
Jellyfish Sanctuary – (Tojoman Lagoon on the island of Bucas Grande off Siargao.) I was most excited for this portion of the tour. We went to visit a sting-less jellyfish lagoon where you can kayak above and see hundreds of jellyfish through the crystal clear water. We saw so many and they were so cool! Apparently they are more common around January (peak season for them) and during this time there’s thousands, some say millions! I was still really happy with the hundreds of beautiful harmless jellies I saw!
This was my first tour in the Philippines and I was surprised at how action packed it was. There were people of all ages doing the cave activities with huge smiles on their faces. I could already tell the Philippines was going to be a fun place to travel! Their country slogan really holds true … ‘It’s more fun in the Philippines!’
We spent the rest of the afternoon visiting a few nearby islands to snorkel around. There were so many sea stars! They are my absolute favorite underwater species!
Siargao is a dream but aside from the unbelievable outside beauty are the strides this island is making towards environmental conservation. Some of the efforts include an abundance of bamboo straws available in the shops & restaurants, fruit shake carts offering discounts if you bring your own cup, and anti-plastic bag institutions. It felt so good being here and being around a community thinking about the future! So enlightening.
Honestly I’ve been impressed with the Philippines in general on their campaigns promoting responsible tourism, respecting the marine life and stressing to take only memories out of your eco-experiences. Simple words and actions like these make such a difference to help educate and reiterate the importance of embodying an eco-conscious lifestyle.
While tourism is still new to Siargao, it’s a perfect time to experience this thriving town. It’s undeniable natural beauty and Eco-friendly community makes it my favorite island in the Philippines!
Recommendations
Accommodation
- AirBnB: ‘Perfect Place by Andre’. Entire bungalow with A/C, kitchen and centrally located in General Luna. 27USD per night.
Food
- Shaka Cafe. Colorful and fresh power fruit bowls. Fair prices for the quality!
- Miguel’s Taqueria. Super cheap taco/burrito stand.
- Aventinos Pizza. Large, cheap pizza (or two!)
- Pleasure Point Cafe. Swings, floor seating, strong WiFi and cats!
- Wheely’s Vegan Café. Chill and local spot. Tons of creative options on the menu. Must try the coconut drenched pancakes. Worth the splurge!
Entertainment
- Lost Keys. Cool little bar selling sweet shirts, cocktails + bar snacks and craft beer by Turning Wheels Craft Brewery in Cebu City. Great options to break away from San Miguel pils/light!
- Hanigad Beach Lounge. Chill spot to grab a beer and watch the sunset on the sand.
